Ice tour

◄ 28-02-2013 ►

Discovering ice climbing at the flagship icefall sites of the Hautes-Alpes.

With Aude.

Off we go for a four-day trip in the Hautes-Alpes to visit a few of the area's classic spots.

The thaw is forecast to set in gradually throughout the week, so we start with Les Orres and its icefalls that catch the morning sun.

Clara is a pretty, rather enclosed and very varied icefall. A wide first pitch is followed by a beautiful pitch in a gully, with a small, well-protected chimney that nevertheless soaked us. After an easier third pitch, the last pitch offers a beautiful, steeper curtain as the highlight of the show.

We then head to Ceillac. In the middle of the week, the site will not be too busy. So we treat ourselves to Sombres Héros, the left Y (right-hand exit) and Vermicelle. Of the three, the last one is without doubt the easiest to climb, there are so many holes (the protection, however, is not great).

The pillar of Sombres Héros is really beautiful and well sculpted. Three short pitches.

The Y is a nice, not very sustained outing, ideal for learning to lead.

200m of a beautiful frozen stream with a nice step to climb on every rope length. Branching and staggered, several rope teams can climb it without too much trouble.

After this ice Disneyland, we take the road to Freissinières. Discovery of the beautiful north face of Gramusat. Conditions are very good there too.

For a first visit, we go for Happy Together and Ice Pocalypse. Each has a beautiful long pitch that is well worth the trip.

Last day in the Fournel. The initial plan was a long icefall-gully, but the ever-stronger thaw talks us out of it in favour of fun climbing at the entrance of the valley. We start with Hiroshima, which turned out to be in very good condition. Coming out of the cave and climbing the curtain is really beautiful!

We then carry on with the pretty pitch of Dessous Chics, also in very good condition.

Before leaving, we pick up La Vision de Marco on the way, a treat climbed entirely by hooking.

A lovely trip, all sorbet ice and shades of blue.