Ice climbing improvement
Two days of ice climbing in the Oisans where the group manages its own autonomy: instructive and friendly!
With Jean-René et le CAF de Valence.
This weekend, the climbers from Valence arrive at Jean-René's guesthouse, ideally located at the gateway to the Oisans, for two days of ice-climbing improvement. Already introduced to the activity, they want to go further, both technically and in terms of managing and preparing a route.
The first day is combined with the La Bérarde ice-climbing gathering. After many changes of plan, it takes place on the south side of the beautiful Vallon du Diable.
But this morning the wind is blowing at altitude and loading the summit slopes... During the morning, generous spindrifts wash over the few rope teams on the north face.
They rightly turn back, because a few moments later the avalanches take over! The snow load brought by the wind probably broke the weak layers, very present this year, setting off these avalanches.
On our side, even though the configuration of the south side is different, we prefer to stop the gathering and wisely go back down to the valley.
This early return lets us carefully plan the next day's outing according to the conditions and how busy the icefalls are. An excellent exercise in which discussion helps back up the choices and formalise common sense to put all the odds on our side. The group sets its sights on the bottom of the Mariande valley: north-facing, there should be ice; with a bit of an approach, we should be alone; and finally, with no slope above, there is no avalanche risk.
Some set off on La Mariande était trop belle and I go with Daniel and Manue on Nid d'Ouziers. Jean-René knows the area very well, having opened one of these lines.
Despite a little flying ice axe, Daniel brilliantly leads everything, managing his pitches perfectly and anticipating the screw placements and the pace well. Manue takes advantage of seconding to test her technique and also manages all the passages, which always turn out to be steeper than imagined. On ice, there are three Kiss Cool effects: the first on the approach: "Ooh... it looks steep!", the second at the foot: "Well, actually it's going to be a stroll!", and the third in the icefall: "Hmmff!! But it's vertical!".
We meet the rest of the group at the top to share the abseils. Everything went smoothly: a hitch-free plan in a still-wild valley!
A great, complete, instructive weekend. Thank you!
Photo gallery...