Dôme de Neige des Écrins

◄ 21-08-2013 ►

An ascent of the Dôme de Neige des Écrins in perfect conditions!

With Sylvie, Patrick & Christian.

I meet my three companions at the Pré de Madame Carle for a leisurely climb to the Ecrins hut. The weather is splendid; the small disturbance of the day before has left the air with an almost autumnal clarity.

Christian has just come back from a solo tour of the Oisans, and Sylvie and Patrick have acclimatised on the Tête Sud du Replat. After a rest day, everyone is in great shape to attempt the Dôme de Neige des Ecrins!

La star du sentier, à ne pas nourrir !
The star of the path: do not feed!

We start walking early in the morning, which leaves us plenty of time to take in the views on this panoramic path.

Pelvoux, Pic Sans Nom, Ailefroides
A panoramic climb to the Ecrins hut

After a pleasant picnic, we gear up to step onto the Glacier Blanc. The snow cover, exceptional this year, makes progress easier, but some big crevasses still cut across the track.

Sur le glacier Blanc
On the Glacier Blanc

Arriving at the hut in mid-afternoon, the TV schedule is set: Her Majesty the Barre des Ecrins draws every eye, and the audience never tires of it.

Barre des Ecrins
The Barre des Ecrins towers over the Glacier Blanc

The hut gradually fills up and ends up full! The vast majority of climbers are heading for the Dôme or the Barre, but the atmosphere is good and the warden has everything under control. A short briefing for the next day, especially on how to organise the morning so as not to trip over each other, and everyone to bed.

Up at 3:20am. After a quick breakfast we get ready; the descent onto the Glacier Blanc from the hut is a festival of headlamps.

Lampes frontales
A torchlight descent

Everyone gears up and we finally settle into our cruising rhythm on the glacier. The crowd spreads out and at last we are on our own, phew!

Aube silencieuse sur les pentes du Dôme
A silent dawn on the slopes of the Dôme

The classic track cuts across the debris of the first serac fall, and it is better to skirt the central eye of the Dôme so as not to expose yourself unnecessarily.

Les traces du Dôme
The tracks on the Dôme (photo from 10/04/2011)

We are making very good progress, conditions are excellent and morale is sky-high. Lulled by the steady rhythm of our progress, we are suddenly caught by the warmth of the first rays. A magical moment in a thousand colours, jewels of the high mountains.

Magie du lever de soleil
The magic of sunrise

A few minutes later, we reach the summit and everything comes together to make this moment exceptional!

Le bisou à 4015m
A kiss at 4015m!

We go down sometimes cutting straight down the slope, which is more comfortable and avoids crossing the other rope teams coming up.

Mes compagnons du jour, heureux !
My companions of the day, happy!

There is only the endless descent of the glacier left before enjoying a slice of blueberry tart with a good beer at the Glacier Blanc hut.

Crevasses sur le glacier Blanc
Crevasses on the Glacier Blanc

A solid, motivated and friendly team. A big thank you to you and see you next time!

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