Maroc : organize your trip

Getting there

By plane

In the jungle of airlines, it is possible to get away with a good hundred euros return. A good price comparison site: Sky Scanner.

Beware: comparison sites are based on a raw price that doesn't include various fees (many!), which by the end of the booking can double the initial price!

By ferry

A journey within the journey: a favourite! Only one crossing from France: Sète-Tangier-Nador. Two long days of travel, and the atmosphere on board is quite something! Moroccans going home, and it shows!

Prices are not much better than flying. You have to really want it, but the journey isn't cut short by a lightning-fast trip.

By car

To take your car there are two options: take the ferry from Sète, or cross Spain and take the boat from Algeciras for a 2-hour crossing. Moroccans told us about a few incidents on Spanish motorways with fake police officers, but I think this is mainly due to their overflowing loads, which don't make them very discreet!

Getting around the country

By car

Interesting for a purely itinerant trip. Gives great freedom, but probably puts more distance between you and the Moroccans.

By bus

The bus network is very well developed and serves almost every tarmac road. It is one of the Moroccans' favourite means of transport.

While CTM is the official bus company (brand-new buses and a well-organised ticketing system), it doesn't offer the flexibility (or the charm) of the other companies. It is indeed very handy to stick your thumb out at the roadside to stop a bus and, likewise, to get off wherever you want, something CTM doesn't allow. Also, CTM bus stations are often away from a town's main bus station, where the other buses and taxis are.

Prices are fixed and the same for everyone. No bargaining possible. We realised the fare is a little less than the number of kilometres divided by 3 (a 100km journey will cost you a little under 30 Dh ~ €3).

On the other hand, when your luggage is loaded into the hold, someone will probably come and ask you for 5 Dh (or even 10!) per bag, which is not compulsory at all, contrary to what they claim! Up to you.

By train

The train network in Morocco is well developed, especially on the west coast and between the big cities (Fès, Meknès, Marrakech...). We didn't get the chance to try it, but trains seem to work the European way. A website: http://www.oncf.ma.

Taxis

Within towns, "Petits Taxis" (small taxis) operate, and they are not allowed to leave town. The fare is charged by a meter that must be switched on at the start: check it, otherwise agree on the price BEFORE the ride. Very affordable prices, unlike "our" French taxis.

For longer journeys not served by buses, there are "Grands Taxis" (big taxis), or shared taxis, which are often good old Mercedes, Peugeots or Logans. The price is fixed and divided by the number of passengers. In a 5-seater, there are actually 7 seats! The driver won't leave until it's full unless you pay for the empty seats... A little more expensive than the bus and less comfortable.

Hitchhiking

Hitchhiking works well in Morocco, but the driver may ask you for a small contribution. As ride-sharing is very widespread, expect to come across quite a few unmarked "taxis"!

By mule !

In mountain villages, the mule is still the best way to carry loads. A true Berber 4x4, it has a bright future ahead of it!

Prices...

In Morocco, everything is negotiable!

Life in Morocco is still very cheap for a European, but you have to keep in mind the importance of bargaining, which is part of Moroccan culture. Moroccans bargain among themselves and haggle endlessly!

A European is seen (rightly) as someone with high purchasing power, and most of the time the prices offered are inflated. So unless you want to pay three times as much for your trip, always negotiate the price!

A golden rule: never be embarrassed, and discuss prices BEFORE any service. You will never offend anyone; quite the contrary.

Climbing areas

There are many climbing areas in Morocco; we visited 3 of them:

Caïat

In northern Morocco near Chefchaouen, this climbing spot offers many sectors of pretty single-pitch routes of all grades on perfect rock. But the obvious attraction of the place is the main cliff, which reaches 350m high over about 2km in length. The potential is huge and barely touched. In 2013, a good twenty routes were opened, half of them to be protected yourself. The rock is often very abrasive. The setting is very open and green.

We stayed at the Rueda café, run by a very friendly local climber and route-setter who gives good advice. All the guidebooks are available. Facing the main cliff, it's an ideal place to settle in.

Taghia

In the High Atlas, this small Berber village lies 2 hours' walk from Zaouit Ahansal, the last village accessible by car.

Breathtaking walls: your gaze seems to want to lose itself in an endless network of canyons. From 300 to 800m, the climbing there is major! Really. Very fashionable, this spot currently offers a multitude of grandiose long routes for all tastes and levels. From sublime fully bolted routes to committing trad terrain, anything is possible. The potential for new routes makes your head spin.

Overall, I'd say that being comfortable onsighting 6b-c lets you make the most of the place, as the routes are long. The style is more technical than physical.

We stayed with Saïd and his family. A lovely welcome and, having seen different numbers of visitors during our stay, they adapt! Thanks again to them.

Youssef also offers his guesthouse in the village. We heard very good things about it.

Finally, don't forget the essential and very good topo by Christian Ravier.

Todgha

Very touristy, these gorges nevertheless hold some pleasant climbing on a few beautiful walls. Dynamic young Moroccans have set up their own association and are helping to develop climbing in the region.

You can easily find accommodation in Aït Baha just before the gorges. The approach through the palm grove is then very pleasant.

Animals

Dogs

The climbing spots are often in fairly isolated places where dogs frequently roam. We didn't see any wild ones: they always belong to a farm or to the local shepherd. Very aggressive, their owner won't always come to your defence, but in most cases this aggressiveness is just for show. A stick or a thrown stone has always been enough to keep them away. A minimum of composure is nevertheless needed the first few times...

Scorpions

The only time we saw scorpions was at the foot of a north-facing route in Taghia. There was one under almost every stone. They were small and white. That was the only time for us. No problem on the routes.

Snakes

We didn't see any, but Saïd had warned us they were around Taghia.

Monkeys

We were watched by a merry troop of monkeys on the middle ledge of the Caïat cliff. No aggression, but what activity!