Lyskamm traverse

◄ 20-08-2015 ►

A snowy ridge traverse above 4000m in an exceptional setting.

With Stéphane.

The Lyskamm, a majestic 4000er of the Valais, has two summits, east and west, both over 4400m. Climbing it as a traverse gives acclimatised mountaineers a sumptuous, dizzying flight through the sky, but requires good snow conditions.

Le Lyskamm se réveille.
The Lyskamm wakes up.

The recent snow gives these glacial expanses a beautiful wintry look again and offers us good conditions to attempt this route. From the Mantova hut, we let ourselves be lulled step by step up the Lys glacier to the Lisjoch (4151m), where the beautiful ridge begins.

Col du Lisjoch.
A date with the sun at the Lisjoch.

At last we cast off for several hours of traverse, taking in a breathtaking landscape.

Sur le fil du Lyskamm. Le fil du Lyskamm et le Gornergletscher.
On the crest of the Lyskamm.

Concentration is essential on this dizzying crest, where every bump opens up new perspectives receding towards the tormented vastness of the Swiss glaciers.

Avant le sommet Est du Lyskamm.
Not far from the east summit.

The wind reinforces the meditative character of the route and plunges us body and soul a little further into the present moment. Suddenly the crest dissolves into a vast glacial plateau. The traverse is over and we are back to the toil of the traditional descent that wears mountaineers out.

Crevasse.

Well done, Stéphane!

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