The Ice Company
Snow, ice and mixed in a lovely gully in delicious conditions!
With Fix & JB.
The Hautes-Alpes have very little snow at the start of this winter, which makes the approaches easier. La Compagnie des Glaces is a pretty classic on the Têtes de Sainte Marguerite above the small hamlet of Le Casset.
In early December 2013, the conditions in this gully are interesting: the lack of snow spices up each step with mixed climbing and a few beautiful ice passages. A delicious warm-up!
Between the steps, the links are in packed powder, which makes for pleasant progress. The wind on the ridges blows snow off the surrounding walls, which pours into the gully in small slides called spindrift, sometimes persistent and a bit too refreshing!
A few belays are in place but most are out of reach because of the thin cover. Usually, three to five extra metres of snow soften the steps. That day, a few fun tunnels and cunning mixed moves make the climbing entertaining and varied.
Protection isn't always obvious and the micro cams came in very handy. Like big kids, we happily scratch our way up the 700m of this pretty gully to come out on the summit ridge, where the wind does not encourage contemplation...
A pleasant day in the Hautes-Alpes, still thirsty for snow.
Photo gallery...